How to Choose the Right Denim Fabric Weight | Denim Ounce Guide for Garment Manufacturing

There are thousands kinds of the raw denim fabric available, with different denim weight, fabric construction, color etc. Denim fabrics in different ounce are used for different types of garments. Have a clearly understand the characteristics of denim fabric, will help you make better choice of denim fabric.

And this choice of denim fabric weight directly effect the garment cost structure, production feasibility of your final products. So let me give you some guide about the denim fabric.

Fabric Weight: not only of Ounce

Denim fabric usually measure in OZ ounces per square yard, while other textiles use GSM grams per square meter.

1oz/yd2≈33.9g/m2
(PS:1oz≈28.35g this is Avoirdupois Ounce for normal actual weight)

The denim fabric weight effect the silhouette, possible washing and the cost. Using the correct denim fabric it is not only for the design, it also for viability of bulk production.

Summary Table for Procurement Reference

Key Factors Influencing when choosing fabric weight

Target Market and Season

For spring summer collection, it usually use 4-10oz lightweight denim fabric due to the hot weather. And mostly top wear use 6-8oz denim fabric and bottom wear use 8-10oz fabric. Because 4-6oz is much light weight and only can wash simply, but 6-8oz fabric is breathable for top and 8-10oz is more durable for bottom wear.

For autumn winter, it is usually from 10-13oz denim. And this weight area range fabric is more suitable for heavy washing and cold weather. Actually mainly jean denim products primarily use 10-13oz fabric, because it can show denim structure and achieve various kind of denim washing.

Garment Type

The weight of the denim largely determines the fabric hand feel and silhouette. For top wear, such as shirt, blouse need breathable and soft feel, that must be light weight denim 6-8oz.

And denim jacket, straight leg jean, wide leg jeans need more heavy fabric to hold the pant shape and support the silhouette, that fabric must heavy enough best is 11-13oz denim.

For women jeans or skinny style, that need the stretch denim fabric so that can fit the body properly and these possible around 9-11oz.

Sewing and Washing Capabilities

Heavy weight denim requires specialized sewing machine and high-strength thread like 608. If choose heavy fabric but factory do not thicker thread that will lead to more broken stitching issue. And for the light weight denim that might only need 602/603 thread. If you choose the supper light weight denim but done sample in normal jean factory, the thicker thread will make the fabric crinkle and possible broken the fabric.

Lightweight fabrics cannot withstand chemical washing (stone wash,bleach or acid wash). when you would like the style have heavy distressing, scraping, crinkle to achieve high-contrast vintage fades, that you have to choose fabric weight above 8oz

Structured and Durable

For most brand and designer, jeans is tied to weight and durability. In the usual sense, more heavy fabric will have higher durable. However, it also related to the weaving construction. Sometimes the 12oz fabric with high-density will be stronger than 14oz fabric in poor construction and poor yarn. Some heavy washing will weaken the fabric strength, like the resin, acid snow washing, bleaching will weaken the yarn and fabric strength, when your style need this that must choose more durable denim fabric.

Like the jacket, work wear pant need strong structure, that must choose medium weight 10oz or above, that can hold the shape. And lighter fabric tend to be soft with less strength to support the shape.

Cost Optimization

Heavier denim uses more cotton yarn (cotton yarn is heavier than polyester yarn), which will increase the price of the fabric. Moreover, heavy denim means the final jeans also are heavier, if you need air goods, that means you have paid more due to the heavy weight. (Sea shipment hasn’t much impact because it most charge by CBM)

Frequently Asked Questions

Is heavier denim better quality?

No, weight of denim does mean quality. Quality is related to the cotton yarn, weaving density/construction, weaving technique, after-finishing quality.

What is the best weight for raw denim?

Normally, I think 13~14oz is ideal, it is heavy enough show the denim texture and structured feel, but wont’ bring any discomfort for wearing.

Related Reading

• Raw Denim vs. Washed Denim: What’s the Difference?
• The Best Summer Denim Under 10oz
• How are jeans manufactured?